Extraordinary Ethiopia

Ethiopia is unexpected.   Addis Ababa is the capital city, where the national museum houses Lucy, our 2.3million year old forebear.   Lalibela, the home of the mysterious ancient rock hewn churches is in the north;  and Aksum at the Church of St. Mary of Zion which (allegedly) houses the Arc of the Covenant is also in the north.    It is the spiritual home of Rastafarians, and inside Ethiopia, the Julian calendar is used rather than the Gregorian calendar that is in use in most of the rest of the world.  

It is a country that is very proud about never having been colonized.    Population-wise it is the second biggest country in Africa, with approximately 130 million people – less than Nigeria and more than Egypt.   Outside of Ethiopia, one of its biggest claims to fame is that the last Emperor Haile Selassie was the spiritual father of Rastafarians.  Inside the country he is known as the last Emperor who ruled from 1930 until he was deposed in 1974, and as the Lion of Judah and a descendent of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba.

5 Places to Visit in Addis Ababa

1. The National Museum of Ethiopia – houses the remains of ‘Lucy’ a 3.2 million-year old fossil skeleton of a human ancestor, was discovered in 1974 in Hadar, Ethiopia.  She was named after “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds” by the Beatles, which was played loudly and repeatedly in the expedition camp.
2. Mount Entoto which rises to 3,200 meters above sea level.  On a clear day overlooks the city.   St Mary’s church is at the peak, and alongside the church is the old palace of Menelik II.   On the way up to the peak is a national park with a 13km hiking trail.
3. The Mercato – the largest open air market in Africa.   Not for the faint hearted, and not somewhere you should take out your phone or any other valuables, but vibrant and fascinating.   You can buy anything – from white goods, clothing and fabric, grains and herbs, to the second-hand section where piles of things like hoses or car parts are piled sky high.
4. Churches – St George’s church in the city, where you can take a tour of the inside and adjacent museum; 
5. Red Martyrs Museum – a sobering reminder of a period that tore the country apart.    The DERG came to power in 1974, with the assassination of Haile Selassie and remained in power until the 90’s.    The Red Martyrs Museum has a record of this period of time

Notable mentions to other places to visit in Addis Abiba  – the Sheraton Hotel for its architecture and bars, the new Science Museum, Menilik Square and Adwa Victory Plaza, or experience the music and Jazz the city is famous for.

Lalibela

Lalibela is a town in the north that is famous for the rock hewn orthodox churches, built on or around the 12^th century.

According to the origin story King Lalibela spent 13 years in Jerusalem late in the 12^th century.  On his return he saw the need for a ‘new Jerusalem’  that would provide respite to the pilgrims travelling up from Africa to Israel.  So he himself dug down into the rocks and carved out the 11 churches that are in Lalibela, assisted by angels in the evenings.   

The churches are magnificent.   The most famous and best preserved is St George’s church.   As you approach, from ground level all you see is the four sided Coptic cross.   But take a step further and you can see that underneath the cross is a free-standing church, carved from rock and at ground level you could walk the entire way around its base. 

Each church has its own unique treasures. The church of Golgotha has the tomb of King Lalibela himself, with the figure of Saint Peter etched into the wall of the rock.  St Mary’s church has a fresco of the Star of David on the underside of an arch inside the church.  St George’s is topped with the square cross.

The mystery about the construction of the churches is how long it took, and how much help King Lalibela had.    There is mystery also in the design.    Stone buildings of this size would normally have been built from blocks from the ground up.   These ones were carved from the roof down, and yet they are perfectly symmetrical, with interior arches and chambers and all the angles correct. 

Three of the churches are still in use, and every Sunday sees tens of thousands of people coming to mass, dressed in the characteristic white clothing of Ethiopian orthodoxy.    Priests move out from the churches and into the crowd for the four hour-long service. 

A Country of Origins

When Ethiopia is called the cradle of civilization, it mainly refers to Lucy.  

Depending on what you choose to believe, it is also the source of the Blue Nile, the resting place of the Ark of the Covenant, the home of the Queen of Sheba, and that when Moses parted the red sea that was actually the Eritrean Sea.   Even teff, the grain that is the staple of Ethiopian food is 6000 years old.  

Teff and Injara

Injara is bread made from teff, an ancient grain that until recently could only be found in Ethipia.  It is fermented and then made into large crepe-style bread.   Because of the fermentation it has bubbles, and it has a slightly bitter taste.   And it is delicious. 

Security

There are plenty of other places to visit in Ethiopia, and many festivals to witness and enjoy.   Check the travel advices as the security situation fluctuates. 

Contacts

Hotel in Lalibela – Sora House  

Trekkup – a Dubai-based travel agency that goes off the beaten path.  Find them on Instagram @Trekkup, Facebook and Meetup