There are any number of places to go in Oman for a cheeky getaway – with partner, with family or with friends. At the recommendation of trusted friends and Instagrammers (@susann_johnston & @kathyleedxb – well worth a follow), I headed to Khasab, in Musandam.
First stop car rental, which is surprisingly affordable and the petrol ridiculously so. Then a shaky and nervous drive on what I consider the wrong side of the Sheik Zayed Road back to the apartment ready for a 5.30am start to get through the border and up to Khasab by 10am. On this journey I’m with my flatmate.
According to Google the journey should only take two and half hours, but we’re allowing for getting lost and the unknown amount of time it will take to get our passports stamped. Khasab is at the northeastern most tip of the Arabian peninsula, and separated from the rest of Oman by a wide swathe of the UAE. The dramatic Musandam peninsula, we are promised is scenically spectacular. We made a couple of wrong turns – the principle of keeping to the coast road came unstuck in RAK when we ended up in the fish market.
It was peak hour at the border, as we lined up behind three French men who as heads of households seemed to have about seven members and seven passport each, and the immigration officer took to hand writing all the entries. Tick, tock, tick, tock … the 10am deadline to meet dhow boat got closer and closer.
At the final check point I parked too far from the window. Had a nano-second of Mexican stand off where I tried to lean as far as I could out the window, refusing to the open the door and him staring at me. I gave up and opened the door, handed over the bit of paper and he asked me if I wanted two hard boiled eggs in return.
Getting a visa stamp and exiting the country was the main purpose of this jaunt, so mission accomplished!
My impression on this and a previous visit is that Oman people are very friendly, despite only ever meeting men during our 24 hour stay. It made me think that maybe it is a poor country, so I Googled it when I got back. Turns out it is not. It has oil and a Sultan. The capital is Muscat and I found out that on the other side it has a monsoon season and there are trees. Not so much on the Dubai side.
But the water is an amazing colour, a very vibrant turquoise-green and clear through to the bottom. It is indeed scenically spectacular.
Beyond the border the road does hug the coast. It winds around and at times it seems like a stiff breeze would bring the waves up over the road and at others we are on the edge of a cliff looking down. Several small fishing villages dot the coast before we get to Khusab.
I drove like a maniac, foregoing Moira’s offer to peel the hardboiled egg so that I could eat it. No time! That is until we reached a convoy of what we guessed were the French contingent, also headed for Khusab and the dhow cruises and driving much slower. We followed them in, which was fortuitous because we wouldn’t have found the launching area otherwise. It is at the end of a construction site with quite a lot of high fence around it and no indication whatsoever that it is a marina.
‘Dhow’ is a generic term to describe the wooden boats that are used from Tanzania, into Egypt and throughout the middle east and even over to India. Historically they’re used to carry freight and have had sails. Ours had no sail, and measured about 20m long by 8m wide, so a decent size.
The cruise was called a ‘dolphin dhow cruise’. The attraction is a pod of dolphins that swim next to the boats. Turns out the tour also included snorkelling. I avoided the first bit of snorkelling because I can be very lazy, but then it turned out the tour was basically a snorkelling tour with some dolphin viewing so I jumped in at the second snorkelling location.
At the end of the cruise and as we left the marina the light was beautiful and we pulled in to take photos, whereupon two things happened. A goat started to pose for me, and as if the cuteness wasn’t enough went to stand inside a fish trap while I snapped away, and Moira realised that the shorts she was wearing on the boat were not an appropriate length for standing next to a mosque so she dived back into the car.
At Al Shamaliah Grill Restaurant that evening the fresh hammour fish was recommended, and I couldn’t resist both hummus and tabouli as side dishes. The tabouli was 95% parsley, which is fine with me, but not if you don’t like a dish that tastes a lot like grass. While Omanis are friendly, the countryside seems to be a lot more conservative that what we have become used to in Dubai and we had to eat while being stared at by a room full of men in white.
After a day full of adventure we had an easy trip back to Dubai the next morning.
Oman – well worth a visit.
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Oman has been on my wishlist for a long time, the diving is supposed to be incredible, although that would probably attract a lot of stares from white men.
No, you’ll be fine :). Mostly foreigners diving – at least where I was. It was just the restaurants in town that were a bit more conservative and even then not antagonistic. I’d like to see the area on the east coast, around Muscat.
I have wanted to visit here for a while. I love Oman but only done Muscat so want to visit more.
Not sure about the border crossing with a baby though – how did you find it?
The hotel at he top of my hotel bucket list is in Oman – thanks for reminding me of my urge to explore there more #farawayfiles
The process of crossing the border was easy – but there wasn’t a lot of signage around to point you in the right direction. On the way up it was a bit crowded because I think we were all going up for the Dhow boat cruises, but coming back we were almost the only ones at the border crossing. Which hotel is at the top of your bucket list ?? In case I get the chance to go back :).
I have wanted to visit here for a while. I love Oman but only done Muscat so want to visit more.
Not sure about the border crossing with a baby though – how did you find it? Love your pics
The hotel at he top of my hotel bucket list is in Oman – thanks for reminding me of my urge to explore there more #farawayfiles
beautiful! #farawayfiles
Thanks :). It was a really nice country to visit.
How lovely! I would love to venture into Oman one day! I find the architecture so fascinating in that region! #FarawayFiles
Yes, it is definitely worth a visit. I’d like to get across to the eastern side and to Muscat and explore that area as well.
I’m heairng such great things about Oman, it appeals way more than Dubai for the fact that it seems much more authentic/untouched. I’m surprised to hear it has a monsoon and is relatively green. #farawayfiles
Yes! me too – I’m told there is some really great diving not far from Muscat as well. I’d recommend it, for sure.
I have heard wonderful things about Oman – I would love to do that boat trip as I love snorkeling AND dolphins. Thank you so much for joining with #FarawayFiles = we don’t get many posts on Oman! Cheers from Copenhagen and we look forward more post from your corners of the world. Erin
Perfect for you if you like dolphins and snorkelling :). Thanks to you for hosting #farawayfiles, and I’m looking to reading the posts.
Wow! Such beautiful pictures! I would love to visit Oman one day! (I still haven’t worked up the courage to drive in a foreign country yet so props to you! haa) #farwayFiles
Ah yes, I think the trick with driving is to just do it. And to constantly remind yourself which side of the road you should be driving on. Everything else seems to fall into place … (famous last words!).
I would love to visit Oman – there seems so much to see, the history, the coast, the desert and canyons, while Salalah during khareef sounds utterly beautiful. I could go with a bit of rain for that. One day…! #farawayfiles
Thank you for sharing I have never been to Oman so this was a great insight into the dhow trip – I can never resist an opportunity to see dolphins. #farawayfiles
The dhow trip is an easy and enjoyable thing to do for anyone – friends, families, or on your own. The dolphins were so friendly and swam next to the boats and played for ages. Thanks for dropping by :).
Haha, that goat’s expression is priceless! Oman looks like a beautiful and different place to visit. I’m putting it on my list. #farawayfiles
Hahaha. I couldn’t believe that the goat just stood there, and then as if I was looking a little disappointed with the shot moved into the fish trap and stood there posing. So cute. Yes, Oman is an easy and relaxed place to visit.
This sounds like a great day trip from Dubai. Well done!
Thanks Moira.
I’m hearing so many wonderful things about Oman. I’d love to go on the dhow cruise as I don’t mind a bit of snorkelling and boat lounging. Thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles
lol. Yes, boat lounging is definately the way to go ;). #FarawayFiles Thanks for hosting a brilliant linkup!
Snorkelling with dolphins sounds incredible. I’ve snorkelled with sharks and turtles but not dolphins. Would be brilliant. thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles
Ah – I’ve never been swimming with sharks! Tried keeping up with a Manta Ray once, and couldn’t … Thanks for hosting a brilliant linkup #farawayfiles
I see I’m not the only one who has heard great things about Oman! A friend told me it was her favorite country to visit in the region. It sounds amazing! #FarawayFiles
Yes, definitely worth a visit :). Thanks for reading. #FarawayFiles
Wow, amazing picture, Oman is safe place for families, great for dhow ride, low crowded, quite, grate for photographer
Thanks for the comment, & I agree. Oman is a a great place for families and for holidays.